"Above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you, because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places. Those who don't believe in magic will never find it." -Roald Dahl
Happy New Year to you! This year, no resolutions for me but there are things I want to work on, and one of them is digitizing.
I always wanted an embroidery machine to enhance my sewing, but up until now, it had a life of its own as I learned to use it with blanks. Today, I worked on a project that I wanted to do for Christmas but time ran out for it. I digitized a pattern piece for a bag: corners that are both functional and decorative. It is something that was supposed to be applied like an applique with satin stitching. The pattern author intended that a regular sewing machine be used, but I like the absolutely perfect satin stitches that my embroidery machine does better and thought this would be a great project to try out my idea of digitizing pieces from sewing patterns.
There are probably better ways to do the digitizing that I describe below, but I am really still learning and just jumping in to do things with what I have figured out. Apologies to any seasoned digitizers who find themselves screaming at the computer that I am doing it wrong!
I started with Simplicity 1129. It is a child's sleepover set that has so many cute pieces, but it was the overnight bag that got me! (Joann Fabrics has crazy pattern sales from time-to-time. This was purchased during their $1 sale. I keep my eye out for those!)
First, I found the pattern piece and scanned it in my computer so I could put it into my software. I measured the actual pattern piece so that I could size it later in the program. It is 4" across, going through the small dot at the "V".
I used Embrilliance Stitch Artist. Stitch Artist is a digitizing program. There are three levels to Stitch Artist. This uses features from Level 1. I opened the program and clicked on the image button to bring in the scanned image onto the virtual hoop. This is just a picture that will be used to trace to get the shape and size I need. I grabbed a handlebar to make the size the very same as the pattern piece. I found it easiest to do this project using the grid in inches.
I wanted to first make a placement guide so I would know where to put my fabric bag front and back pieces on the hoop. I used the Draw with Points button to trace the image. I used the Open/Close Outline to close the shape. Then I selected the Run button to make it a stitched line. I made it two-pass.
I can see in the Objects Pane my image that I traced and my run.
Next, I wanted to make the applique. I only wanted satin stitching outside the seam allowance. (Putting it inside the seam allowance would add bulk unnecessarily). I did a second trace starting from the stitch line printed on the pattern and moved all the away around the image to end at the stitch line on the other side.
To turn my outline into stitching, I clicked the applique button.
It put the applique stitching on the outside of the shape. I found the Create button on the toolbar and selected Outline, then Reverse Points. That moved my stitching to the inside of the circle. I selected the satin stitch.
Next, I wanted to make a tailor tack mark. I did the same trace by drawing with points and then turning it into a run.
I no longer needed the scanned picture so I deleted it by selecting it on the Objects pane and clicking delete on my keyboard.
And that left me with my digitized stitching lines.
I saved it and printed it out.
I could then place the actual pattern piece over it and see that it matched in size. I went on and created the monogram I would be using on the front of the bag. I used Embrilliance Essentials to do the monogram. Essentials is a separate program from Stitch Artist (even though it is from the same company and all shows up on the Embrilliance platform on my computer). It allows me to simply type in my letters to place them in the file and it spaces them for me, although I can change the spacing and resize as I want. I placed both print outs from the software under the Simplicity front pattern piece to check placement and to make sure that everything would match up.
I cut out the fabric pieces for the bag. I applied the digitized corners onto the fronts and backs using my embroidery machine and the new file I just created! I matched the cut lines to the stitched placement lines.
I can turn the hoop to the back to see how the placement lines and the fabric piece match up perfectly through the light.
From there, I stitch the applique just like any other applique, adding the corner fabric, backed in Heat N Bond Lite, and then trimming after it stitches, then allowing the machine to satin stitch over the cut edges.
I repeated the process for all four corners and trimmed to the pink fabric cut edges.
I followed the sewing pattern directions, although I did make a construction change in that the pattern suggests combining the front fabric, batting stabilizer, and lining fabric together, stitching as one. I prefer a fully lined bag with no raw or even serged side or bottom seam edges showing so I lined the bag separately. I also turned the inside bag bottom (board) and filled with Peltex instead of zigzagging the edges closed. This way, the inside of the bag looks as finished as the outside.
And the corners turned out just perfect!
This was initially supposed to go with one of the Christmas presents I gave my niece. The colors all coordinate with her monogrammed robe, slippers, and appliqued PJs. Since this will be a gift for no reason, I thought it would be fun to add something....
This is the Eye Mask from Applique Corner. It is #2475 In-the-hoop Sleep Mask. It was made completely in the embroidery hoop and is super fast to do. I did add a few inches to the elastic length they suggest. Although this is for my niece, my daughter modeled it for me.
I like them together as a gift set.
List of links shared in this post (these are not affiliate links; just direct links only):
Simplicity1129 (I bought mine from Joann's but this link is to the Simplicity company): click here.
ITH Sleep Mask #2475 from Applique Corner: click here.
Additionally...
The fabrics all came from Walmart and were pre-washed for absolutely no good reason since I don't anticipate that the bag will ever be laundered.
I used fusible fleece that I adhered to my fabric with a steam press. The pattern called for Peltex but I was feeling frugal.
I used Peltex in the bottom board only.
Pattern and zipper were from Joann Fabrics.
Embroidery threads are Metro.
I used tear-away for the applique corners and poly mesh for the ITH eye mask.
Sewing was done on a Brother Runway sewing machine and embroidery was done on a Brother PE770.
I added cord to the handles to make them keep their shape and have grip.
Thanks for checking my blog post today! For a list of my embroidery resources and my other embroidery projects, check out my Embroidery page using the tabs at the top of this blog or just click here.
During Christmas, I met up with my Aunt Joan at the mall, and later, on Christmas Day at my house, where the subject of embroidery came up. She found an awesome deal on an embroidery machine at a yard sale (everyone should be so lucky!!) but she put it away because she couldn't figure out how to use it. My take on this: it is not an awesome deal if you don't use it! So, for her (and anyone else that finds this helpful especially those who got an embroidery machine for Christmas), I have created this tutorial. From here on out, I will be talking to Joan (and you) directly!
There are two keys to going from having a "never-used" machine to having a stitching addiction:
Know your machine. Do that by reading the manual so that you can thread your machine, thread your bobbin (even if you will be using pre-wound bobbins, which I highly recommend), get files from your computer to your machine, skip color steps in a design, and go back a few stitches (one stitch at a time). You need to be able to use the built in letters on your machine so that you can test-stitch when something goes wrong with your machine. Learning to fix stuff (like thread that shreds) means that you will want to test to be sure you "got it" before you put in your real project on the hoop. I only use my built in machine designs for testing.
Get software and learn to use it!It should be the last sentence at the end of the machine manual! I got my software just after I finished going through and trying everything in my manual. It was three days after I got my machine so it is never too early to get software!
I use Embrilliance and I started with Essentials. That is what I suggest to EVERYONE. It is the only embroidery software I have ever used (so I cannot compare it to others) but it was so easy to learn Essentials and it has everything you need to really get going with this. You can find it at Embrilliance.com.
Essentials will allow you to merge files, add text by simply typing, alter the size (with stitch recalculation) and placement of files, add color stops, change colors, see a virtual stitch out of the project, and make a real-size paper printout of the design with a list of steps by color. You can place a design in the center of your frame with one button click as well and size your design to the maximum hoop size with a second click. You can import any embroidery file format and save in your machine's format! You can save machine applique pieces as SVGs so that you can cut them in your die cutter. (I use my Silhouette to cut the fabric for my appliques.) You can split designs for multi-position hoops. (That is how I embroider my pillowcases). You can convert thread brands if you like to show on the screen the colors that your brands will stitch out. If you merge different files together and make them overlap, the program will automatically remove under-stitching for you! You can group and ungroup objects. The program gives you stitch counts on your project and allows you to select elements to see the size they will stitch out. It will tell you if your file is too big for your hoop.
Two GIANT benefits of getting Embrilliance over every other option: keyboard text (using bx fonts to type in fonts instead of importing one letter at a time and manually placing them) and being able to add more features to the program by buying more modules later. I have been reading that some stitchers use the free Embrilliance Express to get keyboard fonts but then use programs like Sew What Pro for their basic program in order to save a few bucks. Aside from that being a bit of a pain to do (creating text then opening a second program and importing Embrillance text), what if you want more special features? Like knockdown stitching? Like stitch editing? Like 4x mirroring? Like digitizing? Like density repair? Those other modules with these features fit seamlessly with Essentials but not at all with other programmers' software! And the most expensive way to buy Embrilliance is to buy the wrong thing first and then buy it later once you realize that you need it and like it better!
Important: Embrilliance is sold in modules or nuggets of features. Essentials will have everything you need to get started but there are lots of things to add when and if you are ever ready. I have them all but I have really awesome and talented friends who have everything they need with just Essentials. It is about options and not being forced to pay for things you might not need!
So this is a photo tutorial of how I go from a file I just bought online to a finished item, ready to gift!
I open my Embrilliance. Every file, no matter if I will be changing anything or not, starts with Embrilliance.
I have all the modules so there are more buttons here than your Express or Essentials will have. I tell you that to keep you from being annoyed if you refer back to this once you have the software AND to emphasize that that modules all plug into the same software. They fit together seamlessly; adding modules means simply adding features and each modules does something different.
Then I click on the Merge Stitch File button.
This is how I bring a digitized file to my virtual hoop on my screen.
I have organized my files by vendor on my computer (and I have all my files on Pinterest by vendor, type, and theme. For info on how I did that, you can check out this page on my blog: Organize With Pinterest.) I find my file and click import. (You can see that these are all zipped files and it allows me to import them without unzipping!)
It pops up on my screen. (This file is from Boutique Fonts. I just took advantage of a deal where the entire site of 870 files is $50, but you can also buy it as an individual file.).
Since "Mom's BAKERY" is all one color, I could delete just that color step (by selecting it on the objects pane and clicking the delete button on my keyboard. I could replace it with "Joan's Kitchen" or even "Joan's Bakery" if I wanted to change the font. But for purposes of showing what else you can do, I want to change my design to remove "Mom's" and add "Joan's". There are quicker ways in an editing module from Embrilliance, but even in Essentials, I can do this. Since all the lettering is the same color, I can't just remove a color step, so I use the Stitch Simulator to create a color stop!
I play the simulator, and as soon as the stitching is finished for the "s" in Mom's and moves down for the "B" in Bakery, I click the little stop sign....
A window pops up to allow me to change the color of the word "Bakery" and then I can delete the word "Mom's" since now the two words are two different objects!
I do that by selecting the object I no longer want and hit the delete key on my keyboard.
With the word "Mom's" gone, the artwork on my screen now looks like this.
So now, for fun, I am going to put in the text "Joan's" using a BX font. (This one is Davidson from Applique Corner). I simply click the Create Letters button...
I type in the lettering I want to add using my keyboard and pick the font I want to use.
I can resize the lettering I added to fit perfectly by holding the shift key and moving a corner handlebar toward the center. I can also change the color back on the word "Bakery" so that it is colored like the original file. I can change the colors of any objects I want to here or just make changes when I select my actual threads to stitch out. (I usually don't change the colors in the file unless the digitizer has used something crazy that is too distracting, but if it is simple like this, I just decide my colors at the machine. The reason I changed the "Bakery" to match the "Joan's" is so that it would be one color step, but sometimes keeping them different even if you are going to stitch the same color makes sense because it eliminates a jump stitch.)
I can also now rotate the design so that it stays that size AND still fits in my hoop by selecting all objects (control and A at the same time) and clicking the rotate buttons....
Or I can resize the design to keep the orientation but fit the hoop by clicking the Fit To Hoop button.
Since this will be on a kitchen towel, I know I will be adding a topping so that the stitches won't sink in. I add a basting box that will be the first step of my embroidery. It is temporary and I often use them whether I will use a topping or not because I always "float" my embroidered blanks instead of hooping them. To add a basting box, go to Utility and add Baste Hoop or Baste Design. This temporary stitch is very long and easy to remove once the stitching is done and you take the project off the hoop.
Then, I like to save my design. (File, then Save As.) I save all my embroidery files, even ones like these that I have put in Embrilliance and altered, on my external hard drive.
And then I print it. (On the upper toolbar, just like for Windows applications, select File, then Print). Printing gives me a full size mock up of the design and a list of color steps!
OK, before I go any further, I want you to see the Stitch Simulator (since that really will show you so much about your file and it is what I used to do that color stop earlier). I run this whenever I have a question about a file and sometimes just so that I won't be surprised about what order things are stitching in or if I am not sure what step number is actually stitching. It is really helpful when I merge lots of things together or add text to things like in-the-hoop 3D items. It allows me to make sure that my additions are in the right order. So this is the Stitch Simulator of the final file...(please excuse my very amateurish efforts on video!)
Next, I move a copy of the file I have just made to my thumb drive because that is how I transfer files to my embroidery machine. You will need to read your manual to see how your machine needs files transferred. I always keep the original file (before my changes), as well as my altered file, on my external hard drive. I TEMPORARILY put a COPY of the file I want to embroider on my thumb drive. I find that it is easiest for both me and the machine if I only have one file on my thumb drive at a time! (The external hard drive is the house where my files live; the thumb drive (also called a flash drive/usb drive) is the car that takes my files to the machine where they work!) Your machine may use a cord to connect it to your computer instead.
Then I open the file on my embroidery machine. (Read your manual to see how to do that for your specific machine!)
I prep my hoop. I am stitching on a dish towel for this project. I prewash my dish towels since I am one to abuse and misuse my towels and then toss them in a rough wash and a hot dryer. I expect you do the same, but I do have friends who do not pre-wash and who do hang their embroidered dish towels to dry. So you have options.
I hoop tear away and use the insert to mark the vertical and horizontal lines of the cross-hatch.
I iron my dish towel in half, right sides together to make a center crease.
I use my paper print out of my embroidery to decide where I want it placed. (I have placement charts on my embroidery page on this blog if you would feel better with a guideline. You can find them here. Scroll down on the page to the section called "Embroidery and Monogram Placement Guides." I usually "eyeball" it.
I lightly spray Mettler WebBond on my hooped stabilizer. I do it all the way at the end of the room, away from my machine. A little goes a long way and you only need it to hold a short time until the basting box sews.
I lay the fold of my towel on the vertical axis. I match the horizontal axis of my paper pattern to the horizontal axis of my hooped stabilizer, shifting the towel up or down as needed to get the paper mockup in the correct place. My design will stitch in the center so I make sure my design cross-hatch marks are placed to match the stabilizer's cross-hatch marks.
I move the paper pattern away and open up my towel. The wrong side of my towel is now smoothed against the hooped stabilizer. The right side of my towel is facing up and ready to be embroidered. I do tend to roll up and pin the sides of my towel to be sure they don't accidentally get under my hoop!
I use my print out with color steps to pick my thread colors.
I start by placing a topping of water soluble stabilizer (WSS) and allow the machine to stitch the basting box.
Then I stitch my design. When it is done, I remove the hoop, cut my jump threads, remove the basting box and WSS.
I find that I can use the rubber end of my seam ripper to help with removing WSS.
Any WSS that will not come off, can be removed by placing a damp wash cloth over the design and going over it with a steam iron.
I try to avoid this so that I don't have to wait for my towel to dry. I remove all the tear away from the back of the towel. Any that you miss will eventually get washed out but it is best to remove it before it goes into the wash.
Start out for FREE:
And if you read all of that and honed in on FREE EMBRILLIANCE EXPRESS, then yes, there is a completely FREE version of Embrilliance that will only allow you to use the bx fonts. I did start by doing the free software. I found it frustrating because I wanted to do so much more, but if you are unsure, then guess what? There is an awesome tutorial that shows you a link to get the software, a how-to for downloading the program, a how-to for using the program, and they give you a FREE bx font for lettering so you can play with it. IT WILL ONLY ALLOW YOU TO WORK WITH BX FONTS!! I emphasize that so that you don't go a-tryin' to add files and stuff like that. It only does one job! OK, so if that sounds like a better starting place for you, then check this out from digitizer, Itch2Stitch: http://www.theitch2stitch.com/How-2-Use-the-BX-format-with-Embrilliance_b_6.html
By going on and downloading the free version, you will have Embrilliance on your computer. Once you are ready to "go for it" and add Essentials, all you will have to do is to add the product number you get emailed to you once you pay, close the program on your computer, then open it back up and VOILA! New Essentials features will be there for you! That is how it works to add any modules to the program.
OK, so there you have it. If/when you are ready to get it, go to the store on the Embrilliance.com website. If you buy it there, you get the advantage of any sales going on and get a 90 day money back guarantee if you really don't like it. And you will want to join the Embrilliance page on Facebook so that you know when they offer coupon codes for an extra 10% off. It is typically around holidays.
Links mentioned on this post (none of these are affiliate links; they are all direct links):
Also, I have all of my notes on my blog's Embroidery page with resources, sources for where I buy my supplies, lots of tutorials from other sites, general info about Embrilliance and embroidery in general. There's even a link to a tutorial on how to download files you buy if that is eluding you.
Be sure to join the Brilliance Embrilliance group on Facebook for news and support as well: click here.
Lastly, be sure to follow some of the Facebook pages of some of your favorite digitizers. That is where you will find out about sales. Many also have customer/fan pages where they give away free files but some of them are secret groups and you must request to be a member. There are also a number of Facebook pages for people who do embroidery. Those are great places to look for help or ideas.
Be looking for the towel I made, Joan. I am sending it to you via mail. :) Happy stitching, everyone, and thank you for checking out my blog today!
This is the first Christmas gift-making season that I have my embroidery machine in my crafty arsenal! Like many people I know, everything we see in stores becomes a potential for customizing, monogramming, or embroidering in some way.
Thinking of the kids on my list this year has had me thinking of what I can embroider for them. No matter what, I do still remember being a kid at Christmas, though, and no way am I just giving a garment for Christmas. (Opening clothing was the worst when I was a kid!)
So my solution is to combine embroidered items with toys to make fun gift sets. My first set is for my little niece. I was told that Ariel, who she calls "Mermaid," is one of her favorite characters. I picked up an Ariel bathtub doll and paired it with the hooded towel I appliqued, personalized and sewed for her to make this gift set!
I found the embroidery file for this character on the French Frills website. The coolest thing about this company is the awesome little private customer Facebook group they have where they have tons of files with instructions for all kinds of things from the classic hooded towels that is the hallmark of their site to hats to stockings to hooded blankets. You can go to their business Facebook page and message them to be added to their secret group.
I found a great video that showed me how to self-line the hood so that the backside of the embroidery is hidden and it is absorbent and comfy for kids.
French Frills has their own YouTube channel for how-tos as well for learning how to attach the hood to a towel (although it is basically matching the center of the hood to the center of the towel and sewing in place).
What makes all of this more fun in my opinion is that you can personalize it for the specific child it is going to. I simply added my niece's name, but there are all kinds of add-ons available, especially if you are open to using files from other digitizers as well.
Then I just folded the towel up in thirds and then rolled each side toward the middle and secured with ribbon.
The most fun to me is the presentation. Several French Frills' customers have posted using cake boxes to package their hooded towels.
I found this box at Walmart sold as a pack of two in the cake decorating department. This is a window cupcake box (without the insert). This one is 13.25" x 10.25" x 4". Many are buying them in bulk at Amazon or BRP Box Shop.
This is the label for the boxes I purchased at Walmart.
I will be wrapping the boxed towel and the doll together and voila! One gift is done! Only eleventy-billion to go!
In the event that you are wondering....This project was done using a Brother PE770 embroidery machine, Embrilliance Essentials, a bx embroidery font file, Heat N Bond Light to fuse the applique fabrics to the towel, Metro embroidery thread, tear-away stabilizer, water soluble stabilizer for topping, sharp Titanium needle with embroidery eye, and a pre-wound white bobbin. The appliqued face fabric is crepe; the hair fabric is flannel. For links to where I buy all my supplies as well as general embroidery info, check my machine embroidery page on this blog, or click here.
It's that time of year when we have to come up with lots of inexpensive gifts for gift exchanges. We usually try to find our best deals on Black Friday but, this time, all the stores are doing early sales. For a ballet class gift to exchange that my daughter needed, we found a clearance dance bag at Claire's. We needed to add something to it to make it a $10 gift so we picked up a sale PocketBac hand sanitizer at Bath & Body Works and I made a case with my embroidery machine, a simple Brother PE770.
The case itself is a file from Bows and Clothes. Using Embrilliance software, I added a file from Embroidery Boutique for the mini ballet shoes. I added it after the first step in the hoop.
I had vinyl that looked like sequins in my stash. The file required that the fabric used be something that does not fray so vinyl is perfect. A PDF with directions is included in the embroidery file. Once all the stitching is done, you have to cut the tear-away along the stitching so that the case opens! I will admit that that part threw me for a second! I was very glad I had used black tearaway and black bobbin thread. All the tearaway must be removed from all the stitching, but it is surprisingly fast and easy to do!
I used a Kam snap to complete the case. This is a project where having a hand-held snap-setter is required. The space is too tight for a snap press to work. I used hardware from Mikri to allow it to be attached to the dance bag.
Links shared in this post:
Case for Bath & Body Works hand santizer. This is made entirely in the hoop on an embroidery machine: click here.
Bath & Body Works PocketBac hand sanitizer: click here.
Thank you for checking my post today. For a gallery of my embroidery projects, links to my supplies, and videos I used to learn to do machine embroidery, check out my Machine Embroidery page on this blog, or click here. A gallery of my paper projects can be found in the Paper Project Gallery page, or click here.
